• Announcements

    • c3ptik

      Club Shop Moved and Re-Opened   04/03/2017

      As we look to migrate the club over to Facebook the Club Shop has been re-opened at the following location:
    • c3ptik

      We are migrating! IMPORTANT - Please read   08/07/2017

      Over the past couple of years we've seen an influx of productivity and engagement across our social networking platforms. So much so, that the social realm as you may know, is overtaking the likes of websites and forums. We have been number crunching and feel it is best that we go with the flow and embrace the social media world.
      We have decided to transfer the club over to our already hugely popular Facebook Page and Facebook Group. With over 14k members on our Facebook group alone there is even more engagement with other members from across the world. If you haven't already, now is the time to give our Page a Like and join the Group for discussions.
      The website will soon become a redirect to the Facebook Page and Group. If you have anything of importance posted on the forum, now would be a great time to grab it and post it on our group.

      A further message will be sent before the switch.

      The IOC Team


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About AndySeeYouLater

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • How did you find us?
    Web search
  1. You need 5x100, I imagine your new alloys are 5x112. You can get wobble bolts or adapters but I personally don't trust them
  2. Does anyone have any information on the Porsche Cayenne rear 4 pot upgrade? I asked on the Facebook group but had no luck yet. Cheers
  3. I'm looking at getting 3 additional gauges (already have boost). I'm after water temperature, oil temperature and oil pressure. Has anyone fitted these before and know where i should be attaching the sensors? Cheers
  4. I think your best option would be to fabricate one yourself mate! I haven't come across any others that would fit.
  5. Not meaning to sound like a dick, but is that just the vvt you can hear?
  6. Guys I test fitted one golf gti 18" wheel. They fit but it's tight, was wondering if anyone else is running them and come into any difficulties or if the rub/catch on the arch. Cheers.
  7. What size filter did you use on the SAI?
  8. Fair enough mate, did you blank off the atmospheric part?
  9. I got my airtec intercooler with all the pipes from ND Tuning, I got about 100 quid off because I rang up and asked him to give me a better price! Top bloke he was as well haha.
  10. Ah. Unfortunately you have the forge Split R. This is half recirculation and half atmospheric. So it will probably throw a code and send the engine into limp mode because the MAF is before where the recirculation goes back in. So the ECU is assuming that a certain amount out air will be returned from the valve back into the intake. If you have an atmosphere valve, the air won't return and you will have issues, it can be mapped out but that would be a hassle to do. Sorry, but you're better of sending that one back and buying the Forge 008 recirculation valve. :/
  11. I have one, was the easiest thing to do mate. As long as you have some plyers or mole grips or proper constant tension plyers it will take you about 10 minutesthis is how it should look once the standard one is out. Be careful pulling off the vacuum line from the top, the plastic can snap.once it's done it should look like this.
  12. As I'm getting my car stage 2 mapped, one of the requirements was a 4 bar fuel pressure regulator (standard is 3 bar). I decided to go for a 4.5 bar because racecar. Anyway just thought I'd do a little guide for anyone prepping for stage 2. Make sure the car hasn't been running for at least 20 minutes so that the pressure has been reduced through the system. There is a little clip holding the FPR in place which you need to pull out. I used a flat head screwdriver to pry it out, but you can pull it by hand. Once that is out you need to remove the vacuum line running to the fpr. It's held in place by a one time clamp which you need to cut or pull off (you'll need a new clamp to replace it). The hose will then slid off easily and you can move it out the way. I would recommend wearing gloves and putting some kitchen roll around the fpr as you may spill a bit of petrol when you pull it out. To remove it, gently pull and twist and it should pop out. Before putting your new 4 bar fpr back in, use a bit of lube (wd40 will do) around the rubber seals. Then squash the replacement in and push the holding clip back in place. Then reconnect the vacuum hose with a new clamp. I then primed the fuel pump a few times by putting the ignition on before then starting it and letting it idol for a minute or two to check it was running okay.
  13. I got one off eBay. I went for a digital display though. Most people go for a mechanical gauge. At first I was going to follow the bonnet pull line, but I had difficulty getting the wires through, so on the passenger side there is a grommet that isn't used. I went through that and it comes out behind the glove box. Once through there, feed it along the back of the dash and up behind the steering wheel to the fuses (pop the plastic side panel off to get better access). I found a fuse that went live when the ignition is on using a multimeter, and then spliced the wires in. It's an unconventional method but fairly simple to do, and you can hide all the wires/vacuum lines.
  14. Brilliant, cheers mate!
  15. Hello, I am looking to get my 1.8t fr a stage 2 map soon, but I want to upgrade the spark plugs first. Any recommendations? Thanks in advance!