brettblade

guide
Guide: Door Lock Module

22 posts in this topic

This guide is to change the driver's side door locking module/mechanism on a pre-FL Mk4 Ibiza, but it's also pretty relevant to FL models and indeed the passenger side (or 5 door Mk4s).

 

Why you might need to change the door lock module?

  • Interior light doesn't come on when you open the door
  • Car locks itself even after the door has been opened (but not to be confused with the auto-lock at 10mph feature)

This is caused by a faulty microswitch within the locking module, so that the car doesn't know when the door has been opened.  It is possible to strip down a locking module and repair/replace the microswitch, but I find it easier to replace the full module.

 

What does it cost?

  • New: About £125-130 for a genuine part, sometimes can buy pattern part for £40-50 but I've had a bad experience so wouldn't recommend
  • Used: Between £20-40 depending on age and condition, but the microswitch will already have gone (as is in my case previously), or will probably go at some point (this is a really common fault).

What will I need?

  • T15 Torx screwdriver
  • Posi/Philips screwdriver
  • Small flat screwdriver (or tool for prying)
  • 10mm socket and ratchet (possible with a spanner but very difficult)
  • M8 spline socket and ratchet or bar
  • Masking tape (or other tape)
  • Rag/cloth (anything like that)

 

Start with the door open, obviously.

 

a4680d852e4844ec254b54ed11d063c0.jpg

 

At the bottom of the plastic door card are two T15 screws, take these out.

1609b3b4cfe9e659d517776c8c722a0b.jpg

 

Pry off the plastic cover for the inner door handle.
493142d616b20fb64ec7f55ee21d44ad.jpg

 

This will reveal a fairly large posi screw, that you can remove.
90448ad6d7cf6a1305c795c35eefa327.jpg

 

Now pull the plastic that contains the window switches upwards and away.
ddd1226a0683435a39dbd8ddc97f8cb1.jpg

 

It clips in to the wiring loom from the bottom, and you can see from the bottom where it disconnects.
11f8e1bc5cee42ad7025d8fd1d60fb1a.jpg

 

This reveals another screw, remove it.
2e32a6e672b1ccc012735b5a96e2132e.jpg

 

You're now faced with this.
0115500e6eed5d1710cdf24182cd27f8.jpg

 

From the bottom of the plastic door card, pull it towards you to start unclipping.  The door card will "lean" like this.
4ff9c134ea13d0777df9be1d06bfa288.jpg

 

Once you've got the clips undone, with some slight upwards movement you can "unhook" the door card and it will pull away.  Leaving you with something like this:
f323dcab8c526542d276649c421f202b.jpg

 

There is now some wiring/cabling to undo.  Start on the left hand side with the mirror switch and door lock switch, they're similar clip designs to that of the window wiring.
449d75ce75ae90dbceffc6a230c43b75.jpg

 

Now on the right hand side, undo the alarm LED clip (that's actually on the metal inner door card).
dd64360a1cf6c4ed0e8a90db896560ce.jpg

 

Lastly, undo the door handle cable.  The black plastic latch can be pulled upwards and then towards the edge of the door, creating some slack to allow you to undo the hook from the handle.
803f0e1e74018a67b0d6c1891a0969c6.jpg

 

You're now looking at the inner door card.
c1f7c41967e046f99088a5aac931dc84.jpg

 

To remove the window glass from the mechanism, we need to loosen the bolts.  These can be accessed using the two round plastic access holes.
9a59ecf02b52fea80a8b2e194b3d0c04.jpg
44759af62d77df59b959c3cd78e3b835.jpg

 

Plug the window switches back in for this, and lower the window until the bolts come into view in both holes.
5c9ff770224a27c09aae6d9744419514.jpg
b70a839f8604bae9d3cc6cedd844c349.jpg

 

Now secure the window, using masking tape or whatever you have, and a rag/cloth/microfibre to protect the top of the door.
6297548c0369145cc7ba6a150e3ba862.jpg

 

Now using a socket & ratchet, like so:
72d650240af80e898191600f5025e621.jpg

 

Loosen off each of the bolts around the inner door just to ensure that you'll be able to fully remove them later.
e17500c28605d31398f353b13acc86be.jpg

 

Loosen the bolts holding the window glass in place, about 3/4 (three quarters) of a turn of the ratchet should do it.
53646e8fe23b5a6d42076a488ac5a9ca.jpg

 

Now you can "put the window down" using the window switches, but the glass will stay in place.
cd42feb9aead41b0bc0717a049655246.jpg
ea37d7b004762171d7d49210c1522651.jpg

 

You may find it useful to undo the mirror wiring to create a bit of extra working space.
9e4017fd1af1c9b26ef1bb24b4b72482.jpg

 

Pull away the inner door card, start from the bottom and apply some upward pressure to release the bottom part of the regulator, and then slide downwards to get the upper part of the regulator out.  NOTE:  There is a wire running through the door card and to the locking module, don't pull the door card too far until you've disconnected this.  You can see where it clips into (the blue bit on the module) in a couple of pictures time.  There is a white plastic bracket on most cars that connects the inner door card to the locking module itself, I'm yet to find a purpose for it, and the big consensus is to break it.  It's possible to remove the door card without breaking it, but you'll be tearing your hair out when you come to put it back together too.  I usually rest the door card gently against the door hinge, being careful not to damage the paintwork.  You can remove it completely at this stage if you like, just remove the wiring (and associated clips) from the metalwork.
caf63f90f6c7938bf71951461a882f42.jpg

 

This is the locking module:
b7573d612203c447c67c91e5f2eaeca0.jpg

 

Remove the rubber grommet on the door edge.
888694077aa8fed32b8aa095ffb6c79f.jpg

 

Revealing this T15 bolt:
2b1ebb65647ab964d6177cb3f8714670.jpg

 

Unscrew this bolt until the resistance becomes much greater.  You should now find you can't fully open your door handle.
8775104806558288454351e384869357.jpg

 

Carefully pry off the keyhole cover.
25bdfc4d055adac924083208bed939e4.jpg

 

Now remove the door lack barrel.
8639a2e43e696a03816481e5058c9db8.jpg

 

Leaving you with this:
f9cd8bb5d4e2abfda76ea80ae855cd35.jpg

 

Now unclip the wire from the handle itself.
55dc4788e9e370585b05772bb91ce75c.jpg

 

Like this:
51c18f81bd1bc87f081c652d384a8b9d.jpg

 

Now you can move on to the door latch itself, the two bolts holding it in are M8 spline,
0456746654ab0a248b3f06edf0a11a6f.jpg

 

Loosen and remove the bolts, and you can remove the module.
7dfd6fd6a6fcd95e2abf4885e82ad955.jpg

 

Grab your new locking module:
f3ca7131a22e4f0721854320edb003e6.jpg

 

If you've bought new, you'll have to re-use the handle cabling, the majority of second hand parts come with the cabling still attached.  The shorter cable to the outer handle is pretty straight forward, but the inner cable is a bit more troublesome.  You have to unclip the cable from its mount first before it will actually unattach.  Best way to do this is to pry it upwards with the flat head screwdriver in the location shown.
0657988074100ce270c18b3ae0a9915f.jpg

 

Once you've transferred the cabling over, you've got this:
aeac0765fa63cee71ffa9f429892acf4.jpg

 

Position the locking module and tighten the bolts.  Push the outer handle cable through the hole, and re-clip it to the door handle.
9152d26e37e60ecfecae18f6decb51fe.jpg

 

Now put the locking barrel back in, using your key to allow a bit of movement whilst you line up the tail end and the hole on the locking module.
cf7d10aacf87f611cbb36aa38cbc1c43.jpg

 

Reverse the steps above, and job done!

673d806d1e0487f32f60dd4d8ce84855.jpg

anto likes this

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Looks like a good guide :) This is on my list of things to do, along with fitting the lock blank

Cheers mate, must have seen at least a dozen people ask about this recently!

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Microswitch replacement guide!

Start with the whole module, and you can see the switch (where the wires attach). It's held in by plastic tabs, that you'll need to break the heads off to allow you to remove the switch.

b85181f778e71cefaec63d8377f2703e.jpg

This is the switch unit, you can the see the little button on the top.

1ea2e7f354abacda77c7cba6f97b80a9.jpg

Mechanism position when door is closed (switch not pressed):

2416dcc1b7c9200bbee4d200793b111c.jpg

Mechanism position when door is opened (switch pressed):

62661bfc8e1f136272e68e3292447ab1.jpg

You may be able to repair your existing switch/clean it up or whatever. I replaced mine with a standard microswitch from Maplin. Required some modification however, and you'll need to get creative to get this to fit. You need to wire the existing wires to "C" and "NO" on the new switch, doesn't matter which way round. I modified my microswitch to remove "NC" pole, which is totally optional.

This is mine completed:

1921843dad355d9b96238fae8ec324af.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Tried this today epic fail the lower m8 will not budge and is rounded off tried many things but had to admit defeat. Also the connector for thr module itself would not budge and I broke the black connector taking it off. So after a wasted and put it all back together and now have to pay a garage to do it which isn't great as I am skint after buying a house.

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Sorry to hear that Aimez. Was this using an M8 spline socket or torx/hex socket? The connectors can be a real PITA when they've been on for so long.

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My dad shifted the screw yesterday is more you cannot get to the connector. Will try again this weekend now will have to tape it on lol. M8 spline I followed your guide, top one loosened easy as typical eh! Car is 10 years old I am second owner so never been touched. The screw was lock tighted on though!

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I can believe it, they are sometimes near impossible to move! I've learnt very quickly that good quality tools pay for themselves very quickly! My Snap-On rep loves me lol...

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Was a snap on spline my uncle wad a mechanic and he had a car accident when I was small and we have his entire tool box. Dunno what alot of the tools are for but he had snap on and brit tool spanners and sockets. Why are some screws lock tighted on and some not. Seems odd place to need this no?

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I would imagine it's a relatively high stress bolt, having to hold the module in place when the door hits the catch, lock tight will stop it slipping loose and becoming out of position.

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Okay will get a other from my work then cheers

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Couldn't get lock tighted one the same size but seems secure had to cable tie the broken connector in place lol. Warning buzzer back after well over a year and no worries about locking keys inside phew! Thanks so much for this guide I would have had to pay labour to fix this otherwise! Had to be done as at my new house have to park in middle space and bound to shut the door with keys in at some point trying not to touch others car doors.

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Long shot, but has anyone ever created local copies of the pictures that were previously on this thread?

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great help in doing rear door lock on my 56 plate 1.4, but some differences as guide is front door

Single plastic flap to get at window roll pins....use m5 and m8 bolt to remove

Could not remove inner door card until lock was seperated by drilling out 3 rivets in top right hand corner. These hold the lock (white plastic) and metal support for window guide. Once drilled out to seperate from door card, card came out easily and lock could then be removed past window guide which was now slightly loose.

All white plastic bits easy to change once lock out, and easy to put back in

Installed self tappers back into hole drilled into rivets.

Lock was new and £25 on ebay....and working....hope it lasts.

 

 

brettblade likes this

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Great write up will be following this guide to try fix my drivers door 

brettblade likes this

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Followed guide yesterday and got door card off but couldn't get the two m8 screws off the wedged on 😕😕😕 and now kinda stripped 🤥🤥🤥🤥. I got the window regulator fixed last year the mechanic made a **** of it slightly striped the wires to locking module. Can't seem to get that white clip back into the module 

20170617_080105.jpg

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That m8 argh yeh caused me grief. Now I know why was locktight too as have to tighten it every now and then! 2 years p. Think passenger side is bloody failing as occasionally alarm goes off as locks itself after opening passenger side. I can't remember that white bit does it not compare to anything in the pic?

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16 hours ago, Aimez said:

That m8 argh yeh caused me grief. Now I know why was locktight too as have to tighten it every now and then! 2 years p. Think passenger side is bloody failing as occasionally alarm goes off as locks itself after opening passenger side. I can't remember that white bit does it not compare to anything in the pic?

It goes into the side of the lock mechanism but can't seem to get it back in. Waiting on a mechanic to get back to me 

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