Club Shop Moved and Re-Opened 04/03/2017As we look to migrate the club over to Facebook the Club Shop has been re-opened at the following location:
We are migrating! IMPORTANT - Please read 08/07/2017Over the past couple of years we've seen an influx of productivity and engagement across our social networking platforms. So much so, that the social realm as you may know, is overtaking the likes of websites and forums. We have been number crunching and feel it is best that we go with the flow and embrace the social media world.
We have decided to transfer the club over to our already hugely popular Facebook Page and Facebook Group. With over 14k members on our Facebook group alone there is even more engagement with other members from across the world. If you haven't already, now is the time to give our Page a Like and join the Group for discussions.
The website will soon become a redirect to the Facebook Page and Group. If you have anything of importance posted on the forum, now would be a great time to grab it and post it on our group.
A further message will be sent before the switch.
The IOC Team
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I present to you a complete VCDS Guide originally written for the MK4 Seat Ibiza and Cordoba Models. This is still a work in progress and if you have any requests or additions, pop me a PM and I'll update the file! This has been compiled with months of work for a free distribution. This VCDS guide may also work with Fabia and Polo models, however, this is untested. >>>>>DOWNLOAD HERE<<<<<
V1.2 Change Log Version 1.2
·  – Engine
o ECU Swap (Immobiliser Coding)
·  – Instruments
o Instrument Cluster Swap (Immobiliser Coding)
·  – Engine
o Cruise Control Activation
·  – Instruments
o Key Programming / Matching
Contents  Engine - Idle Speed - Raise/Lower - EGR Valve - Reduce Flow (Diesel Only) - ECU Swapping (Immobiliser Coding) - Throttle Body Alignment - KW-1281 and KWP-2000 (Petrol Only) - Cruise Control - Retrofit Activation  Auto Trans - Coding - 01M (4 Speed) - Basic Settings  ABS Brakes - Coding - ABS Pump Bleeding - Steering Angle Sensor Calibration - Bosch 5.7 & 8.0  Auto HVAC - Basic Settings - Output Tests  Cent. Elect. - Coding - Tow Bar Electrics - Activate/Deactivate - Drip Wiper Function - One Touch Indicators - Terminal 30G - Interior Power Supply Discharge Protection - Heated Windscreen Activation Time - Heated Wing Mirror Heating Time - Rear Screen Heating Time - Boot Lid Remote Unlocking - Headlight Washer Activation  Airbags - Airbag Activation/Deactivation  Instruments - Coding - Output Test - Instrument Cluster Swapping (Immobiliser Coding) - Key Matching - (IMMO3) & (IMMO2) - Service Schedule - Adaptations and Resets (2002-2006) - Service Schedule - Adaptations and Resets (2006-2008)  Steering Assist - Steering Weight - Heavier/Lighter  Central Conv. - Coding - Anti-Hijack - Auto Lock/Unlock, Bleep and Indicator Flash - Selective Unlocking - Remote Fob Syncing  Xenon Range - Headlamp Adjustment - Manual Adjustment
Hi this morning I was driving my car and I noticed a wierd light flashing on the dashboard in the right hand side. After looking in the owners manual I found it was the ESP/TCS light. At first I thought it was just because it was a little damp and slippery out but my car is a base model Ibiza mk4 with steel wheels so I wouldn't think it had TCS or ESP. Could it possibly be a problem with the abs system. Btw it eventually wore off and stop doing it but I just wanna be sure there's not a safety issue.
I attached a diagram and it's the dashboard light with 14 that keeps flashing.
I had some issues finding help on this when I was doing it so I took the time to photograph what I did to write this guide and hopefully help others who attempt it. Disclaimer: I am not a professional mechanic, just a enthusiast who likes to have a go myself. Follow this advice at your own risk. Other than standard tools you will need Spring compressors Trolley jack Axle stand An M14 spline socket (for the strut pinch bolt) Pry bars or a chisel (for opening hub strut seat) T30 torx key/screw driver (to remove splash guards) Large copper hammer (for hammering the hub down off the strut) 5mm allen key for ABS sensor 7mm allen socket or 7mm hex caliper slider pin removal tool (eg: Laser 0275 http://ebay.eu/1Fmfu6m ) Possibly an impact screw driver with T30 bit (removing brake disc retainer) The suspension top nuts I would recommend using a pass through socket set (needs to include a 21mm socket), a long t45 torx key and mole grips to increase leverage on the torx key. (seen furhter on) Draper 40197 vortex socket set includes a 21mm socket http://ebay.eu/1BmCuw0 This cheap set of torx keys from screwfix worked for me http://www.screwfix.com/p/long-arm-hex-torx-key-set-9pcs/49554 An impact wrench will also do the job apparently, but this involves removing the plastic guard from the window seal which I didn't do and can't advise on (it looked a bit awkward) 1a. Working in the engine bay, on the plastic guard that goes along the window find the two plastic push clips on each side pictured below
1b. Use a pocket screw driver to lift the center, which will release and allow you to pull out the whole clip.. mind the thing doesn't fall down the gap in the wing or you'll be half an hour removing the arch liner to retrieve it. 1c. Pull away the rubber sealing strip that secures the plastic cover to the bulkhead 1d. On the wipers remove the plastic caps with a pocket screw driver and undo the 13mm (iirc) nuts pictured below
1e. You can now wiggle the wipers free and remove them, I think they are the same but I marked mine with tape to remember the side they came from ============================================================================================== 2a. Now the plastic cover can be lifted from the front (sort of hinging at the bottom of the wind screen) to reveal the strut tops. 2b. There are plastic domes on the strut tops, just lift these off
============================================================================================= 2c. Next loosen the top mount nuts, I get to this step first to make sure they can be removed else you're wasting your time removing anything else. There is a T45 torx in the end of the strut thread that can be used to counter hold and get the nut off (otherwise the strut just turns), unfortunately you can't get a spanner in there as the cup is too deep and you can't counter hold it while using a normal ratchet as you can't get to the torx in the end of the thread So the solution is a pass through ratchet with a 21mm socket. I used this with a T45 long torx key and mole grips to get extra purchase on the counter hold. This loosened the top nuts easily!
============================================================================================= 3a. Now we know the strut top nuts can be undone we can jack the car up, remove the wheel and secure with axle stands (You'll be hammering down on the hub so this is required), this will also free your trolley jack up which you will need for other purposes. 3b. First thing to do give where the strut meets the hub a good spray of wd40 or similar, doing this early helps give the oil time to penentrate into the hub cup. Note: I initially tried separating the hub without removing the brakes and this proved too awkward to hammer the hub without damaging anything, so its my preference to remove the brakes and ABS sensor. It saves a lot more time in the end. 4a. Detach the brake line from the holder on the strut, do this by prying the metal clip away with a screw driver or pliers and it will be free. Also detach the ABS sensor cable in the same place, this pulls away pretty easily.
4b. Remove the anti rattle clip on the front of the caliper, use pliers or a screw driver to lever it out, I didn't get a picture of this but its easy to spot.
4c. At the back of the brake caliper remove the two plastic dust caps and undo the caliper slider pins with chosen 7mm allen tool like pictured below, then pull the slider pins out.
4d. You should be able to slide the brake caliper away now, find something you can put on the floor to rest this on so the brake line is not taking the weight of the caliper, during other jobs I often hang this from the suspension spring with a bunjee cord but since the leg is coming out that isn't really an option. 4e. Next you need to remove the brake caliper carrier, there are two bolts on the back that secure these and I *believe* they are 18mm, but check this. 4f. Remove the T30 retainer on the brake disc, mine came out with a torx key but my car is only 18 months old.. the correct tool to remove is an impact screw driver with a t30 torx bit if a key doesn't do the job.
4g. The disc can now be removed, it may need a few taps from a hammer if its corroded onto the hub. 4h. Remove the splash guard, there are 3 T30 screws holding this on
4i. Use a 5mm allen key to remove the ABS sensor screw, gently wiggle the sensor up from the hub to get it to come away.. it may feel difficult to remove but it will come. I'd rather remove this fully than remove the connector as I want no risk of damaging it when hammering the hub.
============================================================================================= 5a. Undo the drop link nut at the strut, I believe this was 16mm, there is a torx on the end of the thread if you need to counter hold it, but it didn't turn for me so that was fine. 5b. Next with a trolley jack, jack the suspension leg up from under the wishbone balljoint untill the tension on the drop link thread is released, then just push it through to release the drop link and release the jack again. Below picture is from a different stage but illustrates how to jack from the balljoint.
============================================================================================= 6. Remove the strut pinch bolt using the M14 Spline socket opposite to an 18mm socket (you can use either side to counter hold), this will be the tightest fixing you will encounter and may need a breaker bar or a long handled ratchet.
7. Use a pry bar or chisel to try to seperate the cup holding the strut more, i personally used a hammer and large chisel as I don't have any pry bars.. another spray of lubricant is this area is a good idea.
Below picture is from a different stage, but clearly shows what youre trying to achieve in this step.
============================================================================================= 8. Undo the wishbone balljoint from the wishbone body by removing the 3 16mm nuts and pushing the wishbone down away from the hub (this may require some force to do), a pry bay may do the job.
============================================================================================= 9. The hub will now have more movement available, at this stage you are in a position to go to town on hammering the hub downwards.. it will take significant force to get the hub away from the strut and will feel unnerving hititng it so hard but rest assured it will come. Note: it is important to use a big copper hammer as to cause as little damage to the hub as possible (the copper is much softer that the cast iron hub). Pictured below is the area I choose to hit, as you can tell by the copper left over from the hammer. ============================================================================================= 10. Now the strut is free, get an assistant help, one of you needs to finish undoing the top nut in the engine bay whilst the other holds the strut to prevent it from falling and removes it when free. ============================================================================================= Note: With the strut out, take note of how the spring sits at the base and top of the strut for when you re-install a spring. 11. Next screw down the spring compressors to take the tension off the spring, obviously there is danger associated with this part and if you're not familiar with using spring compressors it may be worth checking youtube for clear instructions on how to use them. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+use+spring+compressors 12. Start removing the top nut using the same method as used on the nut in the engine bay, before completely removing you should be able to feel the spring is loose and tension is relieved by rattling the spring. If its still tense you need to screw down the spring compressors more before removing. Note: When removing top mount and bearing take note of the order they go together. Again picture below is from another stage, but illustrates removal of top nut with T45 bit and 21mm pass through ratchet.
13. Once the top mount parts are lifted away, the spring is now free to be removed, and changed.
14. At this point its now time to reverse the process with the following notes in mind.
I don't have official torque figures, I'm hoping someone can help me with these as i'd like to re-check the torques on my own car and add them to this guide. I used 50nm on wishbone balljoint nuts and the suspension drop link and I used 100nm on the strut pinch bolt - I just did up the top nuts up tight. On re-install first install the strut into position with the top nut in the engine bay not fully tightened (so strut can move around) Next put the ball joint back onto the wishbone and tighten up the nuts, tight by hand with a ring spanner should be fine (again I don't have torque settings) Pry the gap in the back of the hub a bit further and clean the inside of the hub cup and lubricate before trying to reseat the strut, it will help it go in easier. Now push the hub onto the strut to get it to seat. Once the strut is seated straight, make sure the fin in the back of the strut is lined up with the gap in the back of the hub cup. Use the trolley jack to jack up the ball joint again, the tension should allow you to just tap the hub with a hammer and the strut will work its way back into place, keep checking the alignment of the fin to the hub cup gap as it goes into place. Do up the strut pinch bolt while the balljoint is still jacked up so you know the strut is all the way seated. The nut end of the pinch bolt goes towards the front of the car if you didn't remember, again I put 100nm on this but I am unsure of the correct figure. Whilst the hub is still jacked up re-attach the anti-roll bar drop link, use the trolley jack to line up the hole on the strut with the drop link thread. Remember when re-fitting the brakes to fit the splash guard first, I had to take to take the brakes off again because I missed this. Also remember to re-fit the anti-vibration clip to the front of the caliper =============================================================================================
Any amendment suggestions are welcome, also it would be REALLY helpful if someone could provide torque settings.
By Sam Needham
So, I felt it was about time I created a little guide for the forums. I know there is a guide about Cup Holder Replacement already, but I thought I would create an updated thread with some higher quality images, links to the tools/etc. So, anyway, this is a guide on how to replace the Cup Holder on an Ibiza 6L. Jamming and failure of the Cup Holder is quite common in this generation of Ibiza, and is often something that people want to replace!
Project Complexity: 2/10
Time to Complete: Approximately 30 Minutes - 1 Hour
What You'll Need:
- Replacement Cup Holder (can be found through eBay or breakers websites such as 1stchoice.co.uk)
- Radio Removal Tool (For removal of the stock Alana Head Unit, Halfords stock the AutoLeads PC5-132s required): AutoLeads PC5-132 on Halfords Website
- Small Screwdriver with T20 Screw Bit (a must have for any project): Draper 42 Piece Screwdriver Set
- Your Stereo Security Code which can be found on your Radio Card in your Owner's Manual (you must have this in order to use your radio again)
1) The first job is to obviously ensure that the vehicle is switched off and the battery is disconnected before starting the work. This is to ensure we don't run into potentiall electrical problems further on. Once that's complete, put the AutoLeads PC5-132s into the removal holes on the stereo (below button 1 and the SCAN button). The flat side of these should go to the outside of the stereo.
2) When removing the stereo, pull each of the keys slightly to the right whilst applying pulling pressure to the stereo, otherwise the keys will simply fall out! The radio will start to come out, and once out, remove the Antenna, Speakers and Power connectors. Place the stereo in a safe place and ensure that the stereo cables don't fall down the back of the dashboard, as that'll be a real pain to retrieve!
3) The next job is the removal of removal of the tray under where the stereo sits, this does require a firm tug, so don't be afraid to give it a good pull! Once that's out, you'll have access to all the screws you need to undo the facia. There are 5x T20 Screws to deal with, 4 of them being approximately where these red circles are, and the other being inside the hole, under the Cup Holder & Buttons assembly.
4) The Facia should be removable now, although a Flat Head Screwdriver is advisable to help some of the Tabs release to remove the unit. There's now another pair of T20 Screws to remove, one on the left side of the Cup Holder, and one on the right side of the Hazard Light, you don't have to disconnect the Airbag Light, Rear Window Heater and Hazard Light, but it can help to make things more maneuverable.
5) The Cup Holder unit should now be free! Personally, I tried to unjam mine to see if it would make removal a little easier, but it doesn't make much of a difference. Whilst pulling the old Cup Holder out, pull left slightly to help free it from its housing. Don't worry if the Airbag Light falls out, we can reinstall this upon reinstallation!
6) You are now able to slide your new Cup Holder in, slide it into position and check to make sure it works before starting the reinstallation process!
7) Do the opposite of what you did for disassembally, if you have disconnected any connectors, my advice is to reconnect them now and check everything is working correctly before continuing. This reduces headaches later on!
8 ) Once the facia is reattached to the dashboard and screwed in, you can now replace the Storage Tray, which will again need a little bit of persuading!
9) For radio installation with the Alana Stereo, do the reverse of removal. So, for mine, the Black Power Lead goes into the bottom plug, and the Brown Speaker Lead goes into the upper plug, with the Antenna Plug going onto its own connector.
10) Put the stereo mostly back in and re-enter your Radio Code, once put in, press the SCAN button to return to normal radio listening and ensure that everything sounds fine.
11) Once completed, fully install the stereo into the dashboard and remove the radio removal tools. If the tools don't want to come out, then pull the radio out again, and press on the metal strips on either side of the radio whilst slowly working the keys free, and that should solve the problem!
12) Test your Cup Holder and enjoy many refreshing beverages with your new Cup Holder!
I hope you find this tutorial useful. Please note, that I claim no responsibility for damage to your vehicle whilst following this guide. This guide is based purely off my experience of replacing the Cup Holder within the Ibiza 6L, and has not been carried out by a professional mechanic. Before disconnecting electronic equipment from your vehicle, disconnect the battery to eliminate potential problems during this process. Proceed through this guide with care, and seek expert advice from a qualified mechanic if you are unsure/unclear of the uninstallation and installation.